ROSE WREATH Marquetry box Project 0007 Post II

ROSE WREATH Marquetry box Project 0007 Post II

Hi, I'm back at it, loving the woodwork but shacking my head at life, we have just come home from the funeral of a young wife and mother. Sometimes life just doesn't make sense.
But I'm in the shed and making saw dust, in the previous post I had just drawn the pattern for the rose directly onto the veneer with the Brother Scan and Cut printer very successful so far. I will show the picks as I go and make any relevant notes.

ROSE WREATH Marquetry box Project 0007 Post I

I have had a question on Instagram about the method I use to shade the inlay pieces, If I am working on a traditional piece I will use the hot sand method as would have been done in the 17th century and even earlier. However I am a realist and maybe not a greeny, but I am aware of the environment, heating sand and keeping it hot takes a lot of energy, where using the gas soldering iron uses very little, I always ask myself the question, if in the 17th century they had the access to the modern technology would they have used it, if the answer is yes then I think it is quite ok for us to use it today as its just a natural progression through history and in 200 years It will be seen as such.

Another common question is why I use PVA glue and not super glue? this question is going in the other direction, in the 17th century you couldn't get super glue at the $2 shop, the real answer is that PVA glue is more pliable then super glue and there four won't break as easily when you need to adjust something.

Tapping the inlay into the marquetry, courses the veneer to spread  and fit snugly into the piece.

I use a couple of methods of attaching the veneer to the back of the marquetry, sometimes I just use masking tape and other times I use two sided tape and other times I use a combination of both methods, one thing I never do is apply two sided tape directly to the veneer, it's a bugger to get back off.

Separating the two pieces of veneer requires patience as it is easy to brake the inlay veneer.

Shading is another area of a lot of questions, and I have trouble answering them, I have no training in any sort of art or drawing so pretty much I play it by ear. I sort of decide where I think the light is coming from and shade the opposite side of the piece, also I figure any area that would be inside the picture would also be darker. I will set up a scenario and try and explain what I am doing in a separate post.

After I glue the inlay into position I then work around the edge with a small chisel to insure the face is flush.

I then clean up the reverse of the marquetry with a small router (Dremel), this can also be done with a scraper, small plain, or by using sandpaper.

When drilling the pilot hole for the scroll saw blade, select a position in an adjoining area so you can make a smooth transition into the inlay area.

Cut in a clockwise direction.

Sometimes little "BUGGERS" happen, the plain or scraper will tear a piece out, this is no more than a inconvenience, just cut in a new piece. I read somewhere that we can all do woodwork, it is they that take the time to learn to cover the mistakes that becomes the craftsman.  

All finished, I have worked out what I'm going to do next and the above piece will become apart of it, I will publish the details in my next post.
Not exactly shore when this will be as my old mum his just been pit into hospital.
Thanks for taking the time to visit this blog. If you have any questions email me holmesp06@gmail.com